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Building a Frame Saw
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Making a pair of leather work boots
Forging and Fletching a Bodkin
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Sunday, January 19, 2014

Venturi Forge Build Part I - Design

The initial design of this forge was inspired by my small one burner venturi forge being too small and thermally efficient for many of the projects I want to pursue. Some of the main design considerations were having two burners for a larger interior chamber size, a door on the side to allow larger pieces to be inserted (crucibles, armour work, etc.), and a much greater thermal efficiency. A good deal of the aesthetic design has changed due to tooling limitations, but the functionality remains essentially the same.

Above is the original design that I sketched one night on a red eye flight. Although I never actually measured anything or referred to it during construction, I held mostly true to it.

As life presents me with an ever changing outlook on the nature of possession, I have begun tending towards a state of mind where I want to be inspired by the objects around me, my tools, my workplace, where I live. And for it, I decided to start drawing a design that I would later hammer into the housing of the forge much like I did with this armguard.

This is the original design I started drawing that same night as the forge body, but it never really took me. So I started over, similar in concept but different enough that I was able to make something of it.

Over the course of the next several weeks, I started accumulating parts and materials for the construction, but then as fate would have it I fractured my finger right as the last pieces arrived. Unable to begin working on the forge, I had to content myself to the half truth that I would be better off waiting until I could hold tools again.

A good many weeks later, I am finally able to start the build. Below is a list of all the parts I have gathered and used, everything from the sheet metal to the rivets. More to come soon.

Parts List:

-Forge body-

.06" Sheet, 24"x36" -- for use as the shell
.06" Sheet, 12"x12", x2 -- for the two end faces
5/16" rod, 3' long -- to use as a handle/tool/firebrick shelf outside the working end
1/4" rod, 3' long -- to cut and make rivets out of, holding the body together
1/8"x1/2" rectangular bar, 6' long -- various structural reinforcements, around circumference of ends and on side door, and legs
1/8"x2" rectangular bar, 1' long -- brackets to reinforce where the burners meet the housing
Heat resistant black paint -- didn't get this one yet as the shipping would be at hazmat costs so I'm seeing if I can find it local. Used to paint the outside of the forge to give it a uniform, matte, rust resistant finish. After looking around I found this at the local hardware store marketed for stovepipes and grills.
3/4" Flange and accompanying bolts -- to connect burners to shell
Hinges -- For the door on the side. I was going to make these myself but decided not to...
3/16" rod, 3' long -- assorted rivets that the 1/4" was too large for
1"x3/32" rectangular bar -- to seal off the sides and bottom of the door to prevent flame seepage and cover the tool marks of cutting it out


3/4" Black steel pipe, 8" long, x2 -- shaft of the burner
3/4 to 1 1/4 bell reducer -- Flare at the top of the burner to hold nozzle and for air intake
1/4"x4 1/2" Brass pipe, x2 -- gas pipe line that will be drilled for the venturi nozzle
1/4" inner diameter brass pipe cap, x2 -- closes the non feed end of the nozzle pipe
1/4" inner diameter brass T fitting -- joins the two brass pipes and connects them to the gas line
#57 drill bit -- For drilling the pipes for the venturi nozzle (I ordered 2 in case one breaks)
1/4" Ball Valve -- (Female coupling on both sides) Last line of defence for the propane line, quick shut off if needed. Male coupling on both ends preferred, but none were available.
1/4" Pipe nipple, x2 -- For joining the valve to the burners and the hose to the valve
1/4" Propane hose -- To attach the burners to the propane tank. I was going to use the one from my old forge but decided to salvage only the regulator.
Propane regulator -- To join the hose with the propane tank and to regulate the propane PSI as it enters the burners. Using my old one, as I could not find any with a readout and throttle.


Kaowool, 1"x24"x5' -- synthetic wool lining, other brands are fine. I may have to order more of this, as it might not be enough to do 2"
Satanite Refractory Mortar, 3 Pounds -- seals the kaowool fibres and makes it a little more durable
ITC-100 Refractory Coating, 1/4 Pint -- IR coating, dramatically increases the efficiency of the forge. This will be placed over the satanite
Bubble Alumina Refractory Coating, 2.5 Pounds -- High flux resistance and rates over 3000 F, used for the floor lining (firebrick) and around the edges/burner inlet. This will be placed as an outer layer where applied
Firebrick, x3 -- 2 are for the floor of the forge, one in case one breaks/for a shelf outside the front

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